Saving energy means saving money. It also means a more comfortable and efficient home for you and your family. Energy-efficient products use less energy to operate, thus saving you money by reducing your heating, cooling and lighting costs. The tips found here can help you conserve energy in and around your home.

Comparing average energy usage of different models can save you money over the lifetime of an appliance.

By: Pam Blair - April 2003 issue of Ruralite

     When shopping for electrical appliances for your home, don't be fooled by the price tag.
     The least expensive model may not be the bargain it would seem at first glance.
     It could cost you a fortune to operate - an expense that adds up year after year, for as long as you own the appliance. While energy-efficient products tend to cost more than their energy-guzzling cousins, the higher initial investment may be offset by lower energy use.
     An energy efficient appliance that costs $200 more than a less-efficient model - but that results in an energy savings of $100 a year - will pay for itself in just two years.
     Because most major appliances remain in the home for many years, that makes the more expensive model a far better bargain.

Deciphering Energy Usage

     The energy efficiency of similar appliances can vary significantly. Unfortunately, merely looking at various models won't necessarily reveal the differences.
     However, the EnergyGuide can help you comparison shop.
     The bright yellow stickers shoe the highest and lowest energy consumption or efficiency estimates of similar appliance models, based on test procedures established by the Department of Energy (DOE).
     This information enables consumers to compare the features, size and energy usage of models they are considering. From "uses least energy" to "uses most energy," a scale shows how a model stacks up against the competition.
     Since 1980, the Federal Trade Commission has required the EnergyGuide labels to be displayed on refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, clothes washers, room air conditioners, water heaters, furnaces, boilers, central air conditioners, heat pumps and pool heaters.
     Labels are not required on clothes dryers, portable space heaters, kitchen ranges, microwave ovens, lights or on-demand water heaters.

Improving Energy Efficiency

     According to the DOE, the EnergyGuide label has helped boost energy efficiency.
     Refrigerator efficiency has doubled through foam insulation and better condensers, compressors, evaporators, fan motors and door seals. The same things have improved freezers by 52 percent.
     Improved spray arms and filtering systems, better wash action, less hot water usage and introduction of an air-dry cycle have boosted dishwasher efficiency by 37 percent.
     New coil designs, more efficient compressors and better air circulation systems have improved air conditioners by 29 percent.
     Thanks to more rinse options, less hot water in the warm setting, better mixing valves and more effective water extraction, clothes washers are 27 percent more efficient.
     Improved fan motors and heat exchanges have boosted water heater performance by 12 to 15 percent.

Efficiency Equals Savings

     According to the DOE, through 2000, consumers saved a cumulative $28 billion and enough natural gas to heat 19 million typical U.S. homes for a year, thanks to energy efficiency standards and better labeling programs.
     In the year 2000 alone, the standards helped reduce the use of electricity by an amount equivalent to the output of 14 large power plants. Advances in energy efficiency have meant ongoing financial savings for consumers.
     According to industry officials, a new energy-efficient refrigerator costs about $50 less a year to run than a refrigerator manufactured in 1980. New room air conditioners cost about $26 less a year to run than those of 20 years ago.
     Household savings vary based on how much an appliance is used, the climate, and local utility rates.

Water Heater

• Insulate your water heater.
• Lower the thermostat setting to 115°-120°.
• Repair leaky faucets.
• Take a shower instead of a bath. Bathing uses more hot water than showers. A bath will consume 15 to 25 gallons of hot water, but a shower will use less than 10 gallons.
• Use low-flow nonaerating showerheads and faucets. They can reduce your hot water usage by up to 50 percent.
• If you plan to be away from home for more than two days, turn off your water heater at the circuit breaker.
• If your unit is an older model, consider buying a new more-efficient water heater.

Maintaining Your Water Heater

     Your water heater is one of your home's hardest working appliances. A little maintenance can improve its efficiency, speed its ability to heat water, and lengthen its life.

     One of the best ways to save water heating energy and to extend your water heater's life is to lower the thermostat to a cooler setting. A setting of 120° F provides sufficient hot water for most families, reduces the chance of scalding, and decreases wear on your water heater's tank.

     Read the manufacturer's instructions to learn how to adjust your water heater's thermostats, and be sure to turn the power off before opening the covers on an electric heater. Use a thermometer to gauge the temperature at each faucet in your home.

     Corrosion, scale, and sediment are the enemies of your water heater:

• Corrosion happens faster in hotter water. Your water heater is built with a sacrificial anode that helps protect the steel tank by providing a replaceable component that sacrifices itself to the naturally occurring corrosive compounds in the water. This anode should be replaced periodically.
• Scale is the solid material that is normally in solution in water. Again, scaling happens more quickly at high temperatures. Scale reduces the efficiency of your water heater by clinging to the electric elements, or by coating the top of the gas burner.
• Sediment is small particles of debris that settle out on the bottom of your water heater. A drain valve at the bottom of every water heater provides a way to drain sediment from the tank. If sediment covers the elements of an electric water heater, they'll quickly burn out. Gas water heaters are also less efficient if the burner is covered with a layer of insulating sediment. If your water heater rumbles or makes other noises, you probably have a build up of sediment in the tank.

     Water heaters use a lot of energy even when you're not using hot water. This stand-by loss happens when heat travels through your water heater's walls, and can account for a substantial portion of your water heating costs.

     Most older water heaters have only an inch of fiberglass tank insulation, and most newer ones have just an inch of foam insulation. You can reduce your energy consumption by installing an additional blanket of fiberglass insulation. This is one of the most common and effective energy-conservation measures available.

     Water-heater blankets come in kits that contain a blanket, straps and tape. The straps hold the insulation to the water heater, and the tape seals the seams in the insulation.

• Turn the water heater off before installing the blanket. Read all the instructions that come with the blanket.
• Identify the areas where the blanket will be taped to the water heater. Wash these well so the tape will stick.
• Cut the blanket to size with scissors or a sharp knife. Leave some extra until you know for sure how much you'll need.
• Identify the pressure relief valve on either the top or side. Don't cover this important safety device.
• For electric water heaters, you can insulate the top of the tank as well as the sides. Note where two rectangular covers provide access to the thermostats and elements. Cut small flaps in the insulation to provide access to these panels.
• For gas water heaters, don't insulate the top. Note the gas valve and burner access door near the bottom of the tank. Cut the blanket so it is at least two inches away from these.
  Install the blanket so it is snug, and fasten it well so it will stay in place.

This long-lasting conservation measure will save energy day and night for the life of your water heater.

Refrigerator/Freezer

• Make sure the doors are air tight and replace any worn seals.
• Choose a refrigerator with automatic moisture control. This control prevents moisture accumulation without the use of a heater. A refrigerator with an anti-sweat heater uses 5 to 10 percent more energy.
• Maintain the proper temperature. Recommended temperatures are 37 to 40 degrees (F) for the refrigerator and 5 degrees (F) on the freezer of your refrigerator. A separate freezer should be kept at 0 degrees (F).
• Defrost a manual defrost refrigerator regularly to lower the amount of energy needed to keep the motor running. Frost should not be allowed to build up more than one quarter of an inch.
• Vacuum the condenser coils, usually found at the bottom of the refrigerator, unless you have a no-clean condenser model.
• Uncovered foods and liquids in the refrigerator release moisture that makes the compresser work harder. Cover liquids and wrap food stored in the refrigerator.

• Check the manufacturer's recommendations on water temperature. Many have an internal water heater that will allow a lower temperature setting.
• Don't rinse your dishes, but do scrape off large food particles.
• Use your dishwasher only when it's full, but don't overload it.
• Turn off the "rinse hold" as it uses three to seven gallons of hot water each time it is used.
• Let your dishes air dry. If you don't have a switch to control this, turn off the control knob after the final rinse and open the door a fraction to allow the dishes to dry faster.
• Dishwashers use less water, about six gallons less, than washing dishes by hand.

• Wash clothes in cold water whenever possible.
• Wash and dry full loads only.
• Clean the dryer's lint filter after every load to improve air circulation.
• Use the cool down cycle on your dryer to allow clothing to finish drying with the residual heat in the dryer.
• Inspect your dryer vent to ensure that it is not blocked. This will save energy and can prevent a fire.

• Always leave the faucet lever on the kitchen sink in the cold position when using small amounts of water. Leaving the lever in the hot position uses energy to heat the water even though it never reaches the faucet.
• Keep the burners and reflectors on your range-top clean and they will reflect the heat better.
• A covered pan boils water faster than an uncovered pan.
• Turn the burner on your electric stove off several minutes before the allotted cooking time. The element will stay hot long enough to finish the cooking.
• For small meals use a small electric pan or toaster oven instead of the stove or oven. A toaster oven uses a third to half as much energy as a full-sized oven.
• A pressure cooker or microwave oven saves energy by greatly reducing cooking time.

Heating and Cooling

     Keeping your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer uses more energy than any other system in your home. Typically, 44 percent of your utility bill goes toward heating and cooling. Appropriate insulation, weatherization and thermostat settings will help you conserve energy. Here are a few tips that can help:

• Set the thermostat as low in the winter and as high in the summer as it is comfortable.
• Clean furnace filters once a month or as needed.
• Clean the warm-air registers, baseboard heaters and radiators, and make sure they are not blocked by carpeting, drapes or furniture.
• Use your bath and kitchen ventilating fans wisely and turn them off when finished. In one hour, ventilating fans can pull out a houseful of warmed or cooled air.
• During heating season, open the draperies and shades on your south-facing windows to allow sunlight to enter your home, but close them at night to keep out the cold. During cooling season, keep the window draperies and shades closed during the day to prevent solar warming.
• Check the ducts for air leakage.
• Don't place a lamp or television near the thermostat. The thermostat will sense heat from these appliances and improperly cool or warm your home.
• Whole house fans will help cool your home by pulling cool air through the house and exhausting warm air through the attic.
• Purchase energy-efficient equipment when you buy a new heating and cooling system.

Look for high Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings and the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The national minimums are 78% AFUE and 10 SEER.

Finding your home's drafts

     Is your home drafty? Though some drafts may be caused by gaps in your home's exterior air barrier that allow cold outdoor air to enter your home, many apparent drafts are not caused by air leaks at all.

    Air leakage that allows outdoor air into your home can increase heating and cooling expense by 10 to 30 percent. The heated or cooled air in your home will easily travel through cracks that are hidden behind trim, under carpet, or around light fixtures. But these time openings don't tend to add up to much real heat loss. It's the big holes around chimneys, wires, and plumbing fixtures that sap your home's energy efficiency, and the average home has lots of them.

    Take a bright light into your attic, basement, or crawl space, and follow the paths of these utilities where they pass through walls, ceilings, and floors. Use foam sealant, sheet metal, or caulking to seal large openings that allow air to pass into hidden cavities. You'll save energy in both summer and winter by sealing these large air leaks.

     Windows may seem drafty, but they don't usually leak that much air. What happens instead is that the cold window glass cools the air right next to the window. This cold, dense air then sinks to the floor, and flows out across the room. Warm air flows in at the top of the window to replace the cold air, and a circular pattern of airflow is established in the room. It's tempting to blame all the small cracks around your windows, doors, and baseboards for these drafts, but caulking them up usually doesn't save much energy. What is the solution to most cold window problems? Install heavy curtains, or install storm windows if your windows only have a single pane of glass.

    You can save a lot of energy and be more comfortable if you seal up your home's drafts. But don't worry about the little stuff until you've found and sealed all the large hidden openings in your home's air barrier.

Source: Saturn Resource Management (www.redidential-energy.com)

Insulation

• Check the insulation in your ceilings, walls, attic, floors and crawl spaces to see if it meets recommended levels. Adding insulation in the attic is the easiest and most cost effective way to insulate your home. Remember, the higher the R-value, the better your home will resist losing heat. If your home has less than R-22, you should consider adding more insulation.
• Proper ventilation provides moisture control and reduces summer cooling bills. Attic vents ensure proper airflow.
• Do not block vents with insulation, and keep insulation at least three inches away from lighting fixtures or other heat-producing equipment unless it is marked "I.C."
• If you do add insulation to your home, always follow the product instructions and wear proper protective gear.

Home insulation: What you need to know

     Are you thinking about checking your home insulation but aren't sure where to start? It may be best to have a professional contractor do the job for you.
     Nevertheless, you can start the process yourself, which will help when a contractor comes to look at your house. The process is important. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) estimates that you can reduce your heating and cooling needs by as much as 30 percent by investing just a few hundred dollars in proper insulation and weatherization products.
     Here are some tips that will help you decide how good your insulation is in your house.
      First, understand that air infiltrates in and out of your home through every hole, nook and cranny. Here are the leading sources of home air leaks:

• floors, walls, ceilings - 31 percent
• ducts - 15 percent
• fireplace - 14 percent
• plumbing - 13 percent
• doors - 11 percent
• windows - 10 percent
• fans and vents - 4 percent
• electric outlets - 2 percent
  

     You will need to check the insulation in your attic, ceilings, exterior and basement walls, floors, and crawl spaces to see if it meets the levels recommended for your area. Insulation is measured in R-values - the higher the R-value, the better your walls and roofs will resist the transfer of heat. Correct R-values are based on local climate conditions.
     Insulation usually comes in four types - batts, rolls, loose-fill and rigid foam boards. Batts are made to fit between the studs in your walls or between the joists of your ceilings or floors. Rolls or blankets can be laid over the floor in the attic while loose-fill insulation is blown into the attic or walls with a special machine. Rigid foam boards are made to be used in confined spaces such as exterior walls, basements, foundation and stem walls, concrete slabs and cathedral ceilings.
     The easiest and most cost-effective way to insulate your home is to add insulation in the attic. Do you have enough now? Measure the thickness of the insulation (if you have any!). If there is less than "R-19" (six inches of fiberglass or rock wool or five inches of cellulose), then you could probably benefit with more attic insulation.
     The Zip Code Insulation Program will tell you the most economic insulation level for your new or existing house. This interactive program can be accessed at www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html. The Department of Energy and the Oak Ridge National Laboratory developed it. Check it out!
     There is a great deal more to know about insulating your home. Hopefully, however, you now know enough to get started and will be able to discuss your needs with a professional contractor. Remember, too, that your local electric cooperative is always glad to help you implement energy conservation measures. Your co-op loves to help save you money!

Crawl Space Insulation

     Crawl space insulation will reduce the amount of heat your home loses through the floor. It can be a very effective energy-saving measure in cold climates. Crawl space insulation can be installed directly beneath your home's floors, or at the perimeter of the crawl space on the inside of the foundation walls.

     Fiberglass batts are often used for insulating floors, with wire or wood strips used to hold the batts in place. Wide fiberglass blankets can also be used to insulate crawl space foundation walls, though they are prone to moisture damage in this application. The best choice for insulating interior foundation walls is foam insulation that is installed either in rigid sheets, or in a professionally applied spray application.

     When installing foam insulation, some building jurisdictions may require protection by a fire barrier such as drywall that faces toward the crawl space. It's also a good idea to install a heavy plastic ground-moisture barrier that covers any bare ground in the crawl space. This will prevent moisture from rising out of the ground and damaging the home or saturating the insulation. Check with your local building authorities to confirm any such requirements.

     Whether you insulate the floor or foundation wall, you should insulate the rim joist at the same time. The rim joist pockets, formed where the floor meets the foundation, are a large source of heat loss and air leaks. Again, fiberglass is most commonly used here, but moisture often migrates behind the fiberglass and condenses on the cold rim joist, causing damage from mold or rot. Sprayed foam insulation in the rim-joist area is now a common choice, and provides both insulation and air sealing at this critical building junction.

Attic Insulation

     You can lose a lot of energy through your home's attic if you don't have sufficient insulation. If your existing attic insulation is less than 6 inches thick, or rated at less than R-20, it's probably a worthwhile project to add more. You should add insulation to total 12 to 20 inches, or at least R-35 to R-50.

     Loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose insulation is the best materials for insulating attics. If you are handy and don't mind getting dirty, you can install the insulation yourself. You can rent small insulation-blowing machines from many lumber yards or rental companies, and you should be able to finish the job in a day. Professional installation is usually a good value, however, and ranges from 35¢ to 80¢ per square foot.

     Before you insulate your attic, take some important preparatory steps:

• Confirm that you don't have any roof leaks that can damage your home and reduce the effectiveness of your insulation. Fix these before you insulate.
• Inspect the wiring in the attic. It should be modern plastic-sheathed electrical cable. If you have knob-and-tube wiring or older cable with a fabric sheath, rewire the attic before installing the insulation. Be sure that any electrical boxes have covers. You may need to call a licensed electrician for this work.
• Seal any air leaks in the attic, since these can account for a large portion of your home's heat loss. Air leaks are often located around the chimney, plumbing vents, light fixtures, and wherever the ceiling has been dropped such as in kitchens and bathrooms.
• Build a dam around your attic hatch so that insulation doesn't fall into the home when you open the hatch. An insulation dam can be made of plywood, cardboard, or foam insulation board. When you are working in the attic, step only on the wooden framing. Your home's drywall or plaster ceiling is not made to walk upon, and won't support your weight.

Insulation: Fiberglass vs. Cellulose

     Insulating your home is one of the best ways to reduce your electric bill and improve your comfort. Fiberglass and blown cellulose are the most commonly used insulation fibers, but it's important to know which is the best option for your home.

     Fiberglass insulation is purchased as blankets or loose fill. Blankets usually come in rolls, and are installed in walls, floors, and attics. They often have a paper or foil face that helps slow moisture movement. If you install fiberglass blankets in your wall cavities, pay close attention when cutting them to size. Cut them carefully around electrical boxes and wires. A sloppy fit can negate much of the insulating value of fiberglass blankets.

     Fiberglass loose fill is installed in attics and wall cavities. It is a good material in moist, humid climates since it absorbs very little water. It's also a good material for retrofitting the wall cavities in metal-skinned mobile homes. Its low density puts less pressure on the ceiling or underbelly, reducing the potential for damage to the structure. Fiberglass loose fill is usually installed by professional insulators. It's easy to over-fluff this material, reducing its density and encouraging heat-robbing air currents. Be sure your insulator installs it at the manufacturer's recommended density.

     Cellulose insulation is purchased as a loose-fill material, and is always installed with an insulation blower. It's made from recycled paper that is treated with a flame retardant and rodent deterrent. It can be purchased at lumber yards and the blower can be rented so you can install it yourself. Densely packed cellulose creates a better air seal than fiberglass because its small fibers pack into corners, crevices, and small air leaks. Because of this, cellulose is frequently used in older homes. Cellulose is also slightly cheaper than fiberglass.

     You shouldn't install cellulose insulation if you live in a very humid climate since it absorbs moisture easily. This will tend to wash out the fire retardant, decreasing its fire resistance and possibly corroding metal siding, wiring, or roofing.

     If you have questions about which insulation is right for you, consult a professional insulator and enjoy a more comfortable home in all seasons.

Winter Checklist for Your Home

     If you are wondering what you can do to reduce your heating bills immediately, consider the suggestions below. They are arranged on order of urgency and importance.

• Use a programmable thermostat that automatically adjusts your thermostat set point back at night and during the day when no one is home. Or remember to change the temperature set point manually every day.
• If you stay alone in a large house, try to confine your activities to one room and leave the remainder of the house at the low nighttime set point. Heat your daytime activity room to a comfortable temperature with an electric space heater.
• Use electric blankets or quilts for sleeping comfort and to allow a lower nighttime thermostat setting.
• Change your furnace filter as often as it gets dirty. Buy several when you shop so that you will have one when you need it.
• Seal large air leaks around plumbing pipes, wires, chimneys and other penetrations through your floors and ceilings. You can find these from your attic or basement.
• Make sure that all your storm windows are closed during winter weather. If your storm windows are broken or missing, repair or replace them.
• Open drapes and blinds on your home's south-facing windows during the day to let solar heat in.
• Be sure that your walls are filled with insulation and that your attic has at least 8 inches of insulation. Nothing can compensate for lack of insulation. Insulate your walls and attic if they need it.
• If you must replace a gas furnace, choose a 90% efficient model to save on heating costs.

     The last two ideas may require some planning and budgeting. Your local utility or energy expert can provide advice.

Winter Tips for Mobile Homes

     Your best opportunity for mobile home energy savings may be to add more insulation to the roof and floor. Most mobile home roofs and floors are already insulated, but the cavities are usually only partly filled. Filling these areas can save up to 20 percent of your heating cost.

     You'll need to hire a professional insulator to blow insulation into the roof or floor. Blown fiberglass insulation is best for mobile home cavities since cellulose insulation absorbs moisture and contains fire retardants that can corrode mobile home metal parts.

     Does your mobile home have storm windows? Storm windows can make a tremendous difference in your home's comfort level and they save plenty of energy, too. Mobile and manufactured homes usually have their storm windows installed on the interior rather than on the exterior as in site-built homes. Check your windows to see if you have storm windows on every window. If any of your storm windows are broken, have them repaired. Your local glass dealer can build you new storm windows or repair old ones.

     Take some time now to seal air leaks in your mobile home. The best time to search for air leaks is on a windy day, because you'll be able to find drafty places more easily. Seal around any pipes or wires you find under sinks or near electrical boxes. Look in the closet that houses your water heater, too, especially if it opens to the outdoors. These closets often have large holes connecting to the bathroom or bedroom. Seal the air leaks between the closet and indoor rooms with pieces of paneling and liquid foam-in-a-can.

     Remember to attend to your furnace periodically throughout the winter. If it has a filter, replace it as often as it gets dirty or at least once during the heating season.

Reducing summer cooling costs can start in the kitchen

     There are many ways to save energy in the kitchen that require little extra effort. Most of these measures will also keep your kitchen cooler, and reduce the amount of moisture released into your home. These both reduce summer cooling costs.

• Use cold water for cooking, even if you'll heat the water on the stove. Hot water that has been sitting in your water heater isn't considered wholesome for cooking by health experts.
• Use lids on pots and pans when possible to speed cooking.
• Use pressure cookers for foods that require long cooking times. This will usually reduce the cooking time by three-quarters.
• Avoid using your full-size oven. Use a microwave for small meals or leftovers. If you have a gas range, check that the flame is mostly blue, with yellow only at the tips. Have a serviceman adjust them if needed. A properly adjusted flame is cleaner and more efficient.
• Defrost frozen foods in the refrigerator for a day or two before cooking. This is like putting a free block of ice in your refrigerator.
• Check the temerature of your refrigerator and freezer using an accurate thermometer. Adjust your refrigerator so it is no colder than 38-40 degrees. Adjust your freezer to 0-5 degrees.
• If your refrigerator has an Energy-Saver switch, turn it to "off" or "save energy". This controls small electric heaters that warm the outside of the refrigerator to prevent condensation from forming around the door in humid climates. Unless you notice wetness or frost around the door, you don't need to use the feature.
• Run your dishwasher only when it's full. Use the energy saving cycle to save electricity and hot water.
• Finally, if your shopping for a new refrigerator or dishwasher, look for models that have an Energy Star label. These are the most efficient appliances made.
  

Source: John Krigger, Saturn Resource Management

Summer comfort: The human factor

     You can help reduce your cooling bills if you understand how humans stay cool. Your body prefers to remain at a constant temperature of about 98 degrees, and it releases heat in three ways to do this.
     The first way your body cools itself is by giving up heat to the air rising off your skin. This convection takes place when your body warms the surrounding air, causing the air to rise and allowing cooler air to move against your skin.
     The second type of heat loss takes place when your warm skin looses heat to surrounding cooler objects such as walls and furniture. If these objects are relatively cool, this process of radiation allows your body to lose a lot of unwanted heat. If the objects are warm they will accept less of your heat.
     The third type of heat loss is the evaporation that occurs when you sweat or douse yourself with water. If you create more body heat than you can lose through convection and radiation, you begin to sweat and evaporation takes place. If you then stand in front of a fan, your skin will cool rapidly. This is because water carries heat away as it evaporates from your skin.
     Room fans and ceiling fans circulate air within an occupied room to increase convection and evaporation from your skin. These circulating fans can help you avoid the use of expensive air conditioning when the weather is only moderately hot. They also work well when used in conjunction with air conditioning by allowing you to set your cooling thermostat higher. Be sure to leave your windows closed when you run your air conditioner.
     You can help heat radiate from your skin by installing energy conservation measures that keep your home's walls, ceiling, and floor cooler. Plant trees around your home, install awnings or window shades, install attic insulation, or apply a reflective coating on your roof to stop heat before it enters your home.
For more information visit online www.residential-energy.com

Weatherization

• Test your home for air tightness. On a windy day, light an incense stick and hold it carefully next to your windows, doors, electrical boxes, etc. The smoke stream will alert you to any air leaks.
• Caulk and weatherstrip any doors and windows that leak air.
• Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, wiring or ductwork has penetrated exterior walls, floors and ceilings.
• Install storm windows or replace single-pane windows with double-pane windows.
• When the fireplace is not in use, keep the flue damper tightly closed.
• Install rubber gaskets behind the outlet and switch plates on exterior walls.

Geothermal Heat Pumps

     Geothermal heat pumps (GHPs) use electricity and the earth to heat and cool your home. Heat pumps work like refrigerators by moving heat around. The refrigerator moves heat out of its box and into your kitchen. The air-source heat pump moves heat from outdoors to indoors in winter and from indoors to outdoors in summer.

     The more common air-source heat pumps take heat out of the cold winter air to heat your home. This only works down to an outdoor temperature of around 40°F. GHPs take advantage of the earth's constant temperature to provide home heating more effectively than air-source heat pumps and three times more efficiently than electric-resistance heat. This ground heat is extracted from a large loop of piping buried in your home's yard.

     Installing a ground-source heat pump requires an experienced contractor with knowledge of the sizing and installation of the ground piping. Though the initial cost of installing a GHP can be around double that of traditional heating and/or cooling systems, the benefits are many. GHPs can reduce energy consumption by up to 45% compared to air-source heat pumps and up to 70% compared to electric resistance heating with standard air-conditioning equipment.

     A GHP can provide free hot water during the summer cooling season as excess heat is transferred to the hot water tank. In the winter, water-heating costs are roughly cut in half.

     GHPs allow for design flexibility and can be installed in both new and retrofit situations. GHPs are also quieter than conventional systems because there is no noisy outdoor condensing unit. GHPs offer improved humidity control, making your home more comfortable in hot humid weather.

     Finally, GHPs require less maintenance than conventional systems. Because all the piping is underground or underwater, there is very little required maintenance. Occasional cleaning of the indoor coil and regularly changing the air filters are about all that's necessary to keep the system running well.

     If you're building a new home or considering a new heating or cooling system, it may be well worth it to invest a little more initially to permanently reduce heating and cooling costs.

Lighting

     Increasing your lighting efficiency will decrease your energy bills. Here are some tips to help you save both indoors and outdoors:

• Use linear fluorescent and energy-efficient compact fluorescent lamps.
• Turn off any lights you are not using.
• Three-way lamps make it easier to use less light when bright light isn't necessary.
• Use light-colored draperies on your windows to allow more light into your home.
• Use outdoor lights with a photocell unit so they will turn off during the day.
• Low voltage pathway lighting will give off a good quantity of light outdoors.

Landscaping

Landscaping is an effective way to reduce your heating and cooling costs while adding to the beauty of your home at the same time.

• Trees that lose their leaves in the fall are the most effective at reducing energy costs. Properly placed they will protect your home from the summer sun yet allow sunlight to warm your home in the winter.
• Vines grown on trellises can shade a window or an entire side of a home.
• Evergreen trees and shrubs planted on the north and west sides of your home will deflect winter winds. Planted on the south and west sides, they will deflect summer winds.
• Landscaping will help you only if you plan your plantings properly. Never plant near a power pole or power lines. Not only is it safer to plant away from poles and lines; it reduces the chance of damage and power interruptions during a storm.